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Post by alberto on Oct 25, 2007 13:29:14 GMT 8
hi Qwek, a little bit of delay finding a suitable container, but finally found a st croix container. the glass-rod should be on the way by next week. further,my casting is improving, although sometimes fatigue (must get a lighter rod, my st croix 5wt is killing me), impatience (forgeting your words of wisdom 1-2-3, and henry's keep-upper-arm-to body) and trying to get at the fast-disappearing rising fish (bye-bye..ah so slow already) can cause the creep again. now I have another problem: have difficulty casting weighted clousers. got hit on the head several times. so sometime I can get it out in a straight line without the creep, at other / many a time the line collapses. The other problem is because it is weighted, taking the line out of the water causes a rather loud "plop" especially when I have about 10 meters or more of line out. tried falsecasting, but found it difficult to control with a weighted fly. flying weighted red-white clousers can be dangerous and easily spoted by tired flyers blood, besides sweat, and accompanied by colourful multi-language swearings from a hazzled professor of anthropology. need your wisdom. cheers bro Dear Eric, Casting weighted fly successfully boils down to timing of your cast and line speed. There are guys here that are using #3 rod to cast clousers and charlies. You know that the flies are heavy and therefore speed up the cast a "little" so that the back and forward cast does not collaspe. Using a #5 should help as the rod should have enough heft to cast weighted flies. It may seem difficult in the beginning. I have faced the same problem when I first started but proficiency comes with practice and time fishing. If your rod's line weight is light ie #3 and its soft, them keep the clouser small to #8 to #4 tied with bead chain instead of heavy dumbell eyes. Our world of fishing consist of weighted and wind resistant flies and once you have learn to deal with these flies and the wind, you'll find yourself smiling on the water edge and catching more fish. regards Alberto
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Post by azlan123 on Oct 25, 2007 13:52:24 GMT 8
hi alberto, thanks bro. will do. I usually use either a 4wt or5wt at the reservoirs in case the kois get to the fly before the targeted fish.
the other problem is that when the line shoots out and the slack all taken up, the weighted clouser, still with inertia, stop dead in its flight path and jerks backward causing more creep.
finally, I seem to have hit the wall at 15 meters, using a 9ft 5wt. how do I get more distance without whipping the rod to death. longer rod? or faster rod?
thanks bro
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Post by fisho on Oct 25, 2007 15:23:38 GMT 8
Hi azlan123, ...imho... i won't suggest that u change rods.. yet..., the issues u raised maybe due to several points. As Alberto suggested, i'll rather match the weight / size of fly to line / rod weight to what i can handle until i improve. === reference: your front is 9 o'clock, back is 3 o'clock the backcast - start with the rod tip as low (near water surface) as possible, this increases the backcast stroke & reduces slack line as compared to as starting high, say 11 o'clock. simply, u start to load the rod earlier when u water haul starting low. the other problem is that when the line shoots out and the slack all taken up, the weighted clouser, still with inertia, stop dead in its flight path and jerks backward causing more creep. few possible problems with the above mentioned: prob. - too long a line in the air & insufficient line speed : unable to load the rod to move the line/fly. soln. - work with shorter line & distance or use heavier line / rod weight. Use smaller & lighter clouser fly. ===== prob. - leader & tippet system : the leader & tippet is not able to turn the weighted fly coz the leader / tippet is too thin & soft. soln. - use a thicker, stiffer leader, taper it.. check out Q's post on furled / twisted leader.. (u dun expect to turn a weighted 2/0 fly using 4 lbs mono..) ===== Forward cast - u had clousers hitting your head.. Debarb..!!! easier to C&R, easier to remove from fisherman's head.. ;D prob - ur casting stroke is not on a flat plane, rod tip moving at different plane, directing the fly towards your back. soln - move on flat plane lo.. (like steering a car on a straight path while driving, not zig-zag) ===== prob - moving the rod tip too straight : moving the rod is small arcs tighten the line loop to gain line speed. moving it straight tends to cause the flyline to travel below the rod tip. this is worsen using a weighted fly. soln - move the rod tip in a larger arc during false cast. it brings the fly line OVER the rod tip.. it softens the fly landing onto the water. downside : low line speed. ===== would suggest u consider & try the above. practise casting with a weighted fly. for practise, cut the fly hook behind the barb for safety. Use the "heavy" 5wt st. croix to build arm muscles.. ;D woW.. u hit 15 metres.. i can't even cast that distance.. have fun..!
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Post by azlan123 on Oct 25, 2007 15:52:00 GMT 8
hi fisho,
thanks for the tips, and suggestions, especially to stay with the st croix for the time being. guess one of our greatest disease: to find excuse to buy another rod - my fat wife's logic and not too far from the truth.
will try it out again afterwards at the reservoirs next to my flat. hope I don't trash the clousers and charlies, these buggers are d**n expensive at HK$12 a piece. The ones you guys handmade & gave me are too nice to use. gems when compared with those on the market. perhaps will use them when I've sorted out the kinks in my casting, and a worthier prey befound for them in HK.
had the time of my life with you guys in Spore. hope to repay your kindness when you guys come to HK.
cheers eric
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Post by poisonmaster on Oct 25, 2007 18:33:59 GMT 8
Its time for a Renzetti bruther Eric... ;D Thats the other half of the fun of fly-fishing ;D
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Post by alberto on Oct 26, 2007 8:29:22 GMT 8
Dear Eric, I'm not to good with words, all I can say is practice and practice and practice. Changing your rod is not going to help at this point in time. Once you have learn to control your cast, then a slow or fast rod will help you achieve your target and distance.
Before that, stick with what you have.
One more thing, flies are meant to be fished with, they are no use in the box collecting dust. I use to feel the same way when the guys give me flies.
So the next logical step is to learn to tie the various patterns. Believe me that the charlies and clousers are the easiest flies to tie.
regards Alberto
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Post by azlan123 on Oct 26, 2007 9:35:34 GMT 8
hi alberto, will do, and have to. flyfishing can be a bit expensive if we go chasing equipments or catalog shopping. have enjoyed using st croixs for lures & baitcasting since I was a junior high school kid, and using them now for flying. my others are Greys and Fenwicks. cost of the rods & reels are OK, but the shipping is murder! guess the problems are always: which rod suits the angler and for the type of fish he is going after? and worst still, in case I'm going after a specific quarry in future, better get one ready...then its reels...then lines.... all adding up to a fortune, and over equipped..heh, heh my first rod (6-7 years old) given to me by my dead father (an avid bait fisher, his record a more than 400kg marlin fom Kona 1965), which I still have, was a 9 ft bamboo rod with a level-reel (all brandless) and have caught many a good fish with it until I was able to buy my own. at Coho, Henry taught me to tie the clouser and crasy-charlie. as you said, they are simple to tie & elegant. really effective too. saw you guys using them on PBs. will definitely follow your advice and use the "fish-food" you and the guys have sent me. tight lines and cheers bro eric
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